European voltage is 220 volts. That is twice as much as the 110 volts in the USA.
Further, European electric frequency is 50 Hz, less than our 60 Hz.
The consequences of these different specifications are a very big problem for American travelers.
This graph illustrates what comes out of an electric converter if you use it in Europe, the red line. Notice the unnatural form of what should be a sine wave and the hard landing at zero volts for half of the cycle. That electricity is totally out of sync with the specifications of your American gizmos, which are designed for the blue line.
The minimum consequence of using an electric converter in Europe is destruction of your gizmo and smoke from your electric converter. Much worse is also possible.
This is chapter 11.1. The entire book is published free on-line by the DIY traveler, author, photographer, and webmaster —yours truly— with help from my daughter Stephanie and good friend Paula in Haarlem, Nord Holland, Netherlands. Questions, comments, complaints, and contributions are welcome. Please click footnote. Patronage at my euro-shoppe™ keeps this site on line. Updated .
This Internet edition of chapter 11 is presented in three parts:
Additional chapters discussing everything from hairblowers to televisions are at:
The purpose of this page is to bring you up to full power on the biggest buggy-boo facing international travelers, that "electric converter" you have been advised to buy.
The voltage throughout Europe is 220. American voltage is only 110. Knowing if and when you must change European electricity so that it can be safely used in your gizmos is a significant nuisance for travelers. How do you do that? You should not even try.
The line frequency throughout Europe is 50 cycles per second, 50Hz for short. American frequency is 60Hz. This important difference is rarely, if ever, mentioned by commentators or by sellers of converters. Converters do not change the frequency. They just mess it up.
Virtually all travel supply companies, internet vendors, and travel writers recommend that you use an "electric converter" to reduce European 220 volts down to 110 volts so that you can use your electrical things in Europe. This is dangerous nonsense. Power voltage converters actually destroy your electronic gizmos — phones, pads, cameras, computers, and their chargers. I am flabbergasted at some of the rubbish I read on the Internet. And I am saddened by the emails from travelers who got sparks and smoke when they plugged in their electric converter.
Meanwhile, most electronic products are already suitable for Europe's 220 volts and 50 Hz. So you do not need an electric converter if your gizmos are designed as such. For more about this and how to know if your devices are OK in Europe see the images below and in part 2 of this chapter, Plug Adapters for European Outlets. Part 3, European Voltage Essentials, discusses hair appliances and other electromechanical things you wish to bring on your trip to Europe.
Bottom line: Do not use an electric converter in Europe.
Redux: Do not use an electric converter in Europe.
How do you know you can trust me on this?
Briefly, some of my qualifications are:
If that looks like bragging, sorry. Those are just the facts.
Mea culpa! Did I do that? Yup, I have popped the hotel fuses and toasted my gear a few times. Even after decades of international travel I made my worst mistake ever in summer 2015. I blew up my desktop computer after arriving in Haarlem, The Netherlands. And I do mean, BLEW IT UP! There were sparks and bangs, followed by putrid smoke everywhere. Those 220 volts jumped a half inch and the goop in the capacitors splattered throughout the power supply. I knew better, but I had became too familiar with 220 volts and got careless. For a "souvenir" photo see part 3, European Voltage Essentials.
You might be asking why would someone bring a desktop computer along on a trip to Europe? It was a busman's holiday, another extended expedition for the cause — updating this website. I also brought my WiFi laptop. I hate to type on that tiny thing, but it is handy for checking in on some websites and short emails.
In summation, my engineering degree gave me opportunities for a fair amount of international travel plus two extended job relocations to Europe, not to mention Saudi Arabia and the heart of Africa. They didn't tell us about this travel requirement at university. I relocated myself, DIY mode, to Europe several more times. My early interest in building electronic instruments at home gave me a foundation in electronics. That was 50 years ago, but heck, once you learn to ride a bike you're good for life. Being in Mensa is evidence that God gave me some extra stuff between the ears, to help me understand and explain electricity to others who are better at art and music and business and banking. We all have a role in life.
For more data on the technical side of me click on James Broad, Chemical Engineer. Click on my mug shot above for the travel side.
So, end of the intro and on with the message.
An "electric converter" is an electronic device designed to reduce 220 volts to 110 volts. It does this by cutting off half of the peak-to-peak sine wave. Very simple, if you understand alternating current, AC, electricity. Thus, the electricity from an electric converter varies from zero to max volts and back to zero. It does not go to negative volts. It stays at zero volts for half of the sine wave. Therefore, what comes out of a converter is on-off power, at a frequency of 50 Hz. See the red line in the graph above.
Electric converters are suggested for use on hair dryers, irons, and other high wattage heating devices. A converter is much lighter and smaller than a transformer of equal capacity, and it is definitely not a transformer. If it is used with something like a 400 watt slide projector, the lamp will burn out in a few seconds. Yup, I know — I did that.
Because of the way that converters work they may destroy your equipment no matter what. Many normal electrical appliances these days include a chip in the control crcuit. Half a sine wave may be OK for a pure heating appliance from 1950 but the go-stop-go-stop of an electric converter can shake the shorts off a silicon chip immediately.
What do guys do when they get a screwdriver in their hand? They take stuff apart. I removed the cover of a old 1,000 watt "electric converter" just to show what it looks like inside. Here are the guts. It has a diode, a couple of resistors and capacitors, and a rheostat.
My "converter" traveled a few hundred thousand miles in its day but hasn't been on the road for over 20 years. I learned my lesson. There are enough challenges when traveling and it isn't necessary to manufacture more troubles with dangerous devices such as this. The cost of the equipment I burned up exceeded the cost of this converter.
The dimensions of this device measure 2½"x1½"x1½" and it weighs 64 grams, about 2 ounces.
I urge you to absolutely avoid using any device calling itself an electric converter. They are potentially hazardous to your other equipment also because you never know which of your appliances has an electronic control circuit in it. Those chips are ubiquitous. I receive emails every month from people who used a converter and were immediately blessed with an amazing light show from the electric converter or their gizmo, followed by blackout in their hotel room.
Picture this as a situation similar to a converter: An engine is connected to a small cog wheel which is driving a big cog wheel. The big cog wheel is conected to a train. Now remove half of the cogs from the small drive wheel, all on one side. Next, rev that drive baby up to 3,600 revolutions per minute, RPM for short. If you are on that train my prediction is that you are going to have brown briefs, at least yellow, right now.
Transformers are another type of device which changes electrical voltage. Transformers transfer the full sine wave and are safe for virtually all electrical and electronic gizmos. However they are extremely heavy and bulky.
Since I already had the screwdriver handy I opened a small 50 watt transformer and cut back some of the insulation. The guts of this one consist of a couple dozen stacked steel plates and many strands of very thin copper wire.
Transformers are the traditional way of changing voltage, either up or down and by orders of magnitude. And transformers retain the full sine wave so they are safe for most gizmos. Transformers have been in use for over 140 years, basically since the dawn of electricity as we know it. Thank you Thomas Edison and George Westinghouse.
The body of this device is also about 2½"x1½"x1½" but it weighs five times as much as the "converter" pictured above. Copper and steel are heavy. You can't make these things out of styrofoam.
Unfortunately, some merchants who sell electrical devices do not know a transformer from an electric converter. They use the words interchangeably. Some travel "gurus" do the same. This is really REALLY stupid. It is so stupid that you wonder if it is not stupid at all. Maybe it is deliberate deceit? The First Amendment protects free speech, but it doesn't guarantee that people know what they are talking about or that they are honest. Read the product description carefully before you buy.
For example, Walmart sells something they call a "US to EU Europe Travel Power Adapter Converter Wall Plug." That is a mouthful of krap. The device is nothing more than a plug adapter. You can blow up your expensive gizmos with this three dollar item before you get it fully inserted.
Some merchants mention that electric converters should not be used with electronic devices. This caution is usually in small print or in a side bar of their advert.
So, what should you use a converter for? The only devices that can safely be used with converters are heating appliances which do not have any electronic circuitry. That is ancient in our blizzard world of electronic progress.
Let us get up to date with technology. This is the 21st century. Almost everything these days has an electronic control circuit. That's a given so it isn't discussed. American distributors of home electrical devices expect that the device will be used in your home in the good old USA, not in some foreign 220 volt 50 Hertz land. My email indicates that travelers who contact the makers of their appliances to see if they can be used in Europe get absolutely no help from the "service" desks on this issue. The phone bank clerks who answer your call have a script book. This book has all the answers they are allowed to give out, with an accent that only their cousin can understand.
You should be aware that warrantees are tightly written by lawyers to protect manufacturers against lawsuits brought by other clever lawyers. Warrantees do not guarantee that you will have sweet happiness with the product. I went to law school and aced torts so I can say that. Boilerplate warrantees are not subject to negotiation with a company service representative on the phone. The service rep wants to keep his or her job and is certainly not going to give you an out-of-school OK, or even advice on what to do.
Further, 99.99% of warrantees are valid in the USA — ONLY. If you blow it up in France you pay for the replacement. You also pay for consequential damages. Huh? "Consequential damages" could include the value of the hotel you burned down, all of its contents, and all previously prospering people, pets, and produce on the premises. You won't be needing a restaurant guide book because you will be eating prison food until you make bail, if bail is even offered.
The most common appliance that travelers feel they need is a hair blower. NOT! NOT! NOT! The fact is that a hair blower is already installed in each room in virtually every hotel and other form of travelers' sleeping quarters in Europe these days. My experience over the past ten years includes hotels, B&B's, hostels, university dorms, and private homes in a few dozen countries, i.e., every place from Portugal to Estonia and Turkey to Ireland. Every room had a hair blower. I suspect that the reason for this is that 1,875 watt hair dryers have blown out the circuit breakers in so many places that the owners are just fed up with switching the power back on for you fluff-dry bad-hair-day-phobic Americans. Another reason might be that the hotel owners do not want their property going up in smoke when the circuits get overloaded.
So before you make room for that hair blower in your luggage and start hauling it around Europe find out from your hotels if a hair blower is not already provided. This fact is often specified in the web page of each facility. If not, email or phone in to find out.
If you need a hair dryer, curling iron, laptop computer, cell phone, or similar item for your trip to Europe make sure that each item is rated and labeled for 220 volts and 50 Hz. If you buy an item in Europe it is good to go. If you bought it in the USA make sure that the electrical name plate specifies 100-240v, 50/60Hz. Then all you need are plug adapters for the countries you are visiting. There is an example from Apple below and more in part 2 of this chapter, Plug Adapters for European Outlets, to guide you.
There are five plug types used in various European countries. Please visit my on-line store at for the proper plug adapters and power strips. It couldn't be easier.
This is a typical electrical nameplate of a laptop computer. This one happens to be for a MacBook Pro but a similar label can be found on the chargers or cases of all laptop computers, phones, cameras, and such. Normally the charger is a little "black brick" but Apple's way is usually different. Apple chargers are little white bricks. Why do you need to look at this high tech data? Because if you don't you might seriously mess up your pretty little computer. They can be trouble enough even when handled properly. The only thing you really need to know from this label is Input: AC 100-240 V~, 50-60 Hz. That is the top line on the right side. Thus, this charger will operate just dandy fine in Europe without a "converter" or anything other than a simple plug adapter. You will need a plug adapter.
As stated in the first paragraph above, the purpose of this chapter is to bring you up to full power on the biggest buggy-boo for international travelers — "electric converters" for your electrical stuff. I get more email on electric converters than on any other subject. Here again are the three parts of my essay on electriciy.
NOTE TO READERS
I welcome questions and comments. If you have any concerns about your trip to Europe that have not been covered well enough in this section please do not hesitate to write and ask. When you write please include relevant details, per the folowing paragraphs.
ATTENTION, PLEASE!!!
If you are seeking advice on whether or not to use your electrical gizmos in Europe
please send the electrical specifications for your gizmos. This data is on the electrical
nameplate of the gizmo or on the black brick (or white brick if you have an Apple product)
as discussed and illustrated above.
Include the following information in your email:
INPUT
- volts (V or VAC)
- frequency (Hz)
- watts (W) or amps (A) or milliamps (ma) or volt-amps (VA).
If you do not send me this basic information for your specific devices I can not give you any advice. There are a zillion electrical gizmos on the market. I own five of them. I know ABSOLUTELY NOTHING about your tool or toy. I do not have time to look up your gizmo's specifications, and even if I did there is no guarantee that the information I find applies to the thing that you have in your hand. Manufacturers change products by the week. If you do not look at your own gizmo or brick (yes, the information is there) and you do not include the INPUT electrical specifications in your email my reply will be very simple — a reference to this paragraph. I do not want you to fry your computer or other gizmos, not to mention burn down your hotel and go to jail for mischief and manslaughter.
I do not assume anything. Electricity has no conscience. I am happy to reply personally to everyone who writes and who provides the information that I need in order to respond accurately. Sorry if this sounds a bit harsh. Call it tough love.
I do not open attachments. I do not click links to web pages of any kind. Please include all of the INPUT data from your gizmos in the body of your email as noted above. I will reply in a day or two, usually.
By the way, please do not write and ask what kind of "converter" you should use. I get this question every day.
STOP! STOP! NOW READ THIS.
It is already written on this page and throughout this web site multiple multiple multiple times - - -
<><><> DO NOT USE ANYTHING CALLED A CONVERTER <><><>
.
My email address for electric questions is electric@enjoy-europe.com.
Note: The highlighted #E number is arbitrary. It is meant to help identify products in this advert page when you write in for electrical advice.
This 110-250 volt power surge strip has three universal outlets and an American grounded plug so it needs a plug adapter for the countries you are visiting. Make sure that all your gizmos are rated for 110-240 volts.Copyright:
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